I want to do something like this with my 55 gallon. Was thinking of two 20 litre sumps, one growing emergent plants and one growing floating plants (like duckweed and water lettuce that I don’t want overtaking my main display). I have a strong powerhead that I’m not currently using (the tank has a submersible filter) so I’ll be using that. Question is: is it better to pump water out of the tank and into the sumps, or out of the sump and back to the tank?

I’m guessing the latter is the better option as the display won’t be drained if something goes wrong. I think I’ll have several siphons just in case one fails. I’ll be using natural sunlight for the sumps so I’ll probably get some algae growth too (which is fine, it also purifies water!) while keeping my display tank out of direct sunlight.

I’m hoping it will allow me to stock closer to 100% capacity without having to do 50% water changes weekly but we’ll see how it goes!

Thanks for the info on your site, it was very useful!

Adhesive: There is no reason any user should be pulling their battery out. If the batter is faulty, take it to apple. No rMBP has been around long enough for the battery needing replacement due to usage.

Recycle-ability: Apart from the battery issue. During recycling it doesn’t really matter if the parts are broken, because they parts aren’t needed rather, the materials are. It doesn’t matter if the glass on the screen breaks because it’s going to be broken and crushed at the the recycling plant or the glass factory.

Air Vents: You can hardly see them during normal usage. You see them if you place the rMBP upside-down. Or if you place your head on the table when the rMBP is on said table. Or if, for some reason your table functions as a mirror as well.

Microphone Jack: Seriously? If the built in microphone isn’t good enough then i doubt an analogue microphone is up to scratch either. If you “can’t be heard” that means you shouldn’t be using the microphone in that are anyway. If you really wanted good inputs for sound you would use a USB microphone.

Soldered RAM: It was either a thicker rMBP or a proprietary more expensive part. You choose. Considering RAM considerations should be one of your main issues when purchasing the Mac, you would pre-order it. If you think “oh no it’s too expensive for an extra 8GB of RAM” if you really needed the extra ram on this particular computer, you have no choice. You have no alternative, hence, price is not an issue as you have no alternative.

Proprietary SSD: The older Macbooks used standard sized SSDs because they were originally designed to use standard 2.5″ HDD. When manufacturers started manufacturing SSDs they obviously designed them to fid the standard 2.5″ HDD housings and brackets. For the older unibody Macbook Pros Apple simply used the standard available 2.5″ SSD because it was possible and it was cheaper. Apple wanted to make a slimmer product, meaning they had to come up with a new proprietary part. They were nice enough to make upgradeable in future. Price for a pre-oredered upgrade was extremely expensive, but now after the Early-2013 updates, the upgrades for SSD are more reasonably prices.

Although it’s not flush against the case, like it was on the Superdrive drive side, The MacBook has dropped to 54 C. It looks as if the keyboard vent theory is indeed rubbish, balderdash, and ruddy hearsay. If the keyboard is sealed as the author suggests, as it should be to keep particulate matter from traveling down, there is no way the primary source of cooling is located there. I can verify that supplying an indirect air source to the side ports and the left intake vent on the back hinge is far more effective than blowing a direct air source across the keyboard and hinge.

If both the author and I are wrong, I do have a way for you to disprove us. Close the laptop lid and turn the MacBook you own on over, with the apple logo laying on a flat surface. Although the vent’s will still be impaired as to airflow, you should get a slightly lower temperature reading from an external monitor as opposed to leaving it right-side up with the lid closed.

I believe the keyboard rumor comes from the effect of convection. Certainly I’ve felt hot air move as I’ve typed on the built-in keyboard, however, this could simply be the effect of heat escaping through the aluminum case (aluminum is used in commercial heat sinks); heating the cool air near the keys causing it to rise. That combined with a terrifying design from another computer company that attempts to defy the laws of thermodynamics by pulling cool air where hot air would naturally rise. A keyboard ventilation system would make much more sense as an outtake rather than an intake.

Brilliant article, I say. My MacBook is now 20 degrees cooler thanks to the author.

I have tried all the recommended remedies, but nothing seems to work. I have downloaded SimCity4 with a torrent and also downloaded the POWERPC fix. Obviously, when I try to start the game without the fix being installed I receive a notification that “powerpc applications are not supported”. But when I try to install the fix, it can’t find an installed copy of Simcity. Yet, if i have the disc mounted, the fix installer recognizes the presence of SC4 and requests that it be dismounted.

I have tried moving the SimCity4 folder into ‘Applications’, as well as putting the fix in the same folder.

I really have no idea what I am doing wrong or what I did right the last time. Can someone give me a step-by-step guide to resolving this issue?

— Someone mentioned placing the fix with the SC4 executable file–> where/how can I find this? —–

i feel like a noob :(

SimCity 4 Rush Hour does not appear to be installed correctly.

The installation of SimCity 4 Rush Hour (located at /Applications) is not valid. Install SimCity 4 Rush Hour again to fix this problem.

any ideas?

This update can not be installed because an existing installation of SimCity 4 Rush Hour could not be found.

sadface

Thanx

I was wondering if you happen to know anything at all about these methods and whatnot?

It does take a lot longer for files to get “DOD 5220.22″-ed than ‘regular’ deletion, but for some reason I stopped looking into these deletion methods (probably got distracted or something :p).

Drag Simcity 4 to you’re application folder

Download the dmg! (link; http://www.gamefront.com/files/8099270)

after download the dmg (file name; SC4RHMac1.1RevA.dmg)

double click on the dmg file, this will open a new window with Sim City 4 Rush Hour Installer.

Install by double click on it.

after install you can play simcity!

* there is no patch for the sound problems!!

>it is possible to run the notebook under full load with the lid closed and the components to run no hotter than if the lid was open

I have a 13″ MBP, and the fan gets significantly louder and the machine louder when the lid is closed. When the lid is closed and the machine is under stress, the fan running at full speed. Opening the lid makes the machine almost silent.

I wouldn’t call that utter rubbish, but rather Apple changed the deisng so the 2010-2012 models don’t take air in through the keyboard!

https://www.box.com/s/o6n2fma607ftsoc7jjd3

If that doesn’t work I can email you the file directly but that would have to be on Monday :)

Sorry for being annoying, it’s just that I love playing this game (: